All you are doing is teaching him that he can’t pee or poop in the house; showing him the behavior expected of him in your home; and identifying specific items and actions that are forever a “NO”.  As a “house trainer” it’s your job to teach him self-control, limits, and boundaries.  You will help him gain control over his bladder and bowel movements, while showing him where it’s okay and not okay to use the bathroom.  You will be introducing him to the world of humans, so teaching him social skills will help keep him, you, and others safe.

There are different ways to house train your new dog, crate training, the training leash, and paper/pad training.  All involve patience and diligence on your part.  Younger pups relieve themselves frequently and will stop at any moment, anywhere, to do just that.  An older dog that was never house trained doesn’t know peeing on the couch is not a good idea.  If he’s got to go, he’s going to go.  Feed and take your dog out on a regular schedule.  Take him to his potty place at the same times, through the same door, to the same elimination area, and he will soon let you know when he has to go out.

CRATE TRAINING   Approached correctly, crate training is a good way to house train both young and older dogs.  Once you’ve made up your mind to use a crate, have one in place when your dog first arrives home.  There are many different types of crates to choose from.  Whether you decide on plastic, metal, wood or combination of each, specific criteria apply.  Always select a crate that will be large enough for him when he reaches adult size and weight.  It should have open areas on all sides for good ventilation, and allow him to see out.  I prefer the metal crates with tray bottoms because they allow dogs to see out in all directions, and they are the easiest to clean.  You can drape a blanket over the top to protect pups from drafts in cooler weather.  Comfortable bedding that is both durable and washable, a few chew toys, and a non-spill water bowl are all that’s needed in the crate.

Confining a dog every day for long hours is cruel and detrimental to his health and mental being. The result could be an extremely stressed dog.  Don’t resort to extended crating simply because it’s easier for you.  Take the time to house train your dog so you can trust him alone at home for several hours.   Once he is house trained, he won’t have to be crated, but you’ll discover that, if you leave the crate door open, he’ll find his way in, day or night, to nap, chew his bone, and play with toys. His crate should be a place he feels comfortable and safe, so it is important for us to provide a positive association with the crate from the very beginning.

My observations have shown that crate trained dogs love their “space”, and prefer sleeping in it rather than on their owner’s beds.  Here are several other good reasons to do crate training:

·         Keeping your eyes on a new dog every single minute is not an option.  His crate is a safe area for him to be, giving you the opportunity to get things done without him underfoot.

·         Crating protects your home from doggie destruction when you are away.  He won’t get to chew baseboards, shred toilet paper, rip the foam out of your pillow, bite the corners of your rug, chomp on your shoes, or leave teeth marks all over your new furniture. 

·         Dogs like the “den” lifestyle, and once accustomed to their crate will use it as their relaxation spot and bed.

·         Placing him in a crate in your car prevents seat to seat jumping, keeping both you and him safe on the road.

·         Airlines and hotels request crating of non-service dogs.

·         Pet professionals especially appreciate crate trained dogs because crates are used routinely at a majority of veterinarian offices, doggie day care centers and dog groomers.

INTRODUCING THE CRATE  Place his bedding inside.  Open the crate door and let him see you put a few tasty treats 2 inches inside so he has to step into the crate to get them.  Say the command word “crate” and praise him as he steps inside.  Repeat placing treats 2 inches inside the crate 3-4 more times.  Each time he enters the crate and picks up the treat, say the command word “crate” and give him lots of praise.  The 5th time, place the treats about 5 inches inside.  Repeat this 3-4 more times.  Then toss the treats all the way to the back of the crate so his entire body is inside.  Next, alternate tossing treats with a favorite toy.  Repeat 1-2 times then toss a few treats and the toy into the crate and close the door behind him.  Position yourself several feet away from him but where he can see you. The kitchen and living/family room are good locations to begin crate training. 

The first time you close him in, leave him inside for 15 to 20 minutes.  If he settles down and plays with his toy and eats his treats, praise him and every few minutes without opening the crate, drop another treat inside.  Wait the full 20 minutes before letting him out.  If he falls asleep, leave him there until he wakes up.  In a couple of hours repeat crating him for the 15 to 20 minutes. Scheduling this training around evening, morning and afternoon nap times proves helpful with younger pups.  By the end of the week he should be quite comfortable in his crate for 4 - 5 hours.

If you are potty training, always take him outside to the potty place before crating him and as soon as you release him.

DOES YOUR DOG HATE HIS CRATE?   Should your dog react poorly to his crate by barking, yelping, whining, scratching, twirling, or a combination of these things, DO NOT go to him, DO NOT open the crate to console him, and DO NOT release him.  Rushing to release him can create a negative association towards the crate.  If you go to him while he’s acting up, he is more likely to repeat the noisy performance every time you crate him.  Instead, walk out of the room and remain out of his line of vision until he quiets down, which by the way, could take 1 minute or 30.  Don’t speak to him, don’t call out to him, don’t look at him, and don’t let him make eye contact with you.  Remind yourself that nothing bad is happening to him.  He has treats and a favorite toy with him.  Waiting for him to settle on his own is essential.  Feel free to close a door to separate yourself from his noise if it gets to you.  The key here is PATIENCE.  When he quiets, calmly enter the room, praise him, open the crate and let him out.  Try to do this quickly, before he has a chance to react.  His reward for settling down is release.

If he starts up again when you enter the room, say nothing, turn your back to him and the crate until he stops.  After each “stop”, turn to face him and proceed to open the crate door.  If he starts up again, turn away and again wait for him to stop.  If after 3 – 4 tries he doesn’t quiet down, leave the room for 5 minutes, come back and try again.  Release him quickly at any moment of silence.  Over time you will be able to extend the amount of time he sits quietly before you open the crate door to release him.

When working with a dog that exhibits this type of behavior, I recommend placing him in his crate every 2 hours for 15 minutes to help get him used to being crated and released.  Increase the time in 15 minute increments every time you put him in working up to 2 hours.  Place him in his crate at bedtime after his last trip outside and ignore any cries for attention.  Provide him with mental and physical activities such as favorite toys, treats or a chew bone, and he will learn to settle in his crate.

When Not To Crate

If you’re upset or disciplining him for unwanted behavior, DO NOT drag him to his crate.

Illness or ingestion of a foreign object can cause diarrhea, a condition where he may have no choice but to soil his crate.  Don’t even think about punishing or disciplining him if this occurs – no matter how upset you are or how messy the clean up.  Take 3 deep breaths, turn around twice, and accept the miserable fact that the next hour or two will be spent cleaning and disinfecting the crate, the bedding, the toys… and probably bathing him too.  Until his movements are regular, it is best not to crate him.  Give him a small space on a non-carpeted area and keep a close eye on him.  Consult with your veterinarian if his diarrhea lasts more than 1 day.   If you have questions about causes of diarrhea in dogs, or other health related concerns, ask Dr. Jacki, DVM, through the Ask The Vet column on the All Things Dog Blog.  Dr. Jacki, DVM has over 12 years of veterinary experience.

ALTERNATIVES TO CRATING 

THE TRAINING LEAD  The Training Lead can be included with all types of training, and is a wonderful tool for house training young pups and older dogs. Used together with crating, your dog could be house trained in a short time.   

A training lead used at least 2 -3 times a day helps teach your dog to practice self-control inside the house, pay attention to you, and allows you to keep a close eye on him.   Using a clip with a double clasp, attach one end of a 6 or 8 foot leash to your dog’s collar and the other end to your belt.  A lightweight lead can be attached to his collar and the other end tied around your waist.  He should have about 6 feet of length between you and him.  Wherever you go he comes along, even if you have to tug a little.  As you walk around the house, he may run ahead of you.  Turn quickly and go in a different direction each time (this may be where the tugs come in).   As he turns to follow you, say the command words “let’s go” and praise him. 

Using the training lead establishes your leadership right from the start.  And, because he is close to you, you can pet him, play with him, talk to him, and get him focused on you – a great foundation to building a close bond.  The lead is effective in house training because he can’t chew your furniture or chomp on your new shoes if he’s laying down right next to you.  Provide him with a chew toy or bone if you are going to be sitting for a while.  His toys will keep him occupied as he lies at your feet.  Praise him for calm behavior and immediately correct unwanted behavior with a gentle tug of the lead combined with a vocal “eh eh – no” command.  If he takes hold of something he shouldn’t have, take it away by offering him something else that he can have.  Praise him for releasing the object.

The lead is a good way to introduce him to his new home.  With him securely attached to you, take him into different rooms and let him explore.  You can correct any misbehavior with a quick tug and “eh eh - no”.  As he learns his way around the house over the next few weeks, with your direction, he’ll learn what’s off limits.

If he’s still potty training, you can catch him in the act if he squats to relieve himself.  Correct him with “eh eh – no” and immediately take him to his potty place. 

After a few weeks if you believe you can trust him, allow him access to rooms in the house without the training lead. Encourage him to follow you room to room.  Let him wander about but do watch him out of the corner of your eye.  Praise him for all good behavior. 

STATIONING your pup will teach him to settle on his mat, and allows him to be with you in any room. Stationing should be done once or twice a day as time permits and not longer than 30 minutes each time.  After a few weeks, if you’ve been consistent, you will be able to station him without the lead.   If you are potty training, be sure to take him to the potty place before stationing.

Attach one end of his leash to his collar and the other end to an anchor such as a hook screwed into the baseboard, or by securing it around the leg of a heavy piece of furniture.  Give him 6 feet of leash length so he can move around.  Place his mat or blanket where he’s anchored and spread 1 or 2 of his favorite toys within his reach.  As you give him a favored treat, say the command “settle” then turn and walk away from him.  Remain in the room where he can see you but ignore him.  He should be laying down munching away on his treat.  Praise him calmly from across the room if he has settled down.  Don’t go to him.  For the next 30 minutes read, watch TV – whatever, but remain where he can see you.

If he acts up, do not go to him, and do not look at him - continue what you are doing.  Ignore him until he quiets.  If you catch misbehavior correct it immediately by clapping your hands and saying “eh eh - no”.  Clapping your hands stops misbehavior from a distance by refocusing his attention on the sound.  He will soon settle down and play quietly while keeping an eye on you. Praise him calmly from across the room.

After a few stationings, step out of the room where he can’t see you for 10 – 15 seconds.  Say nothing if he reacts to your leaving.  Count to 10, reenter the room and continue what you were doing.  Ignore him.   Repeat leaving the room for 10 – 15 seconds every 5 minutes for as long as he is stationed.  When he stops reacting to your leaving, increase the time until you are out of the room to 5 minutes.  Praise him for good behavior when you release him.

This is another really good way to introduce your dog to your home while keeping him out of trouble.  Station him in different rooms wherever you will be.  Remember to always praise his good calm behavior and immediately redirect unwanted behavior.   

WATCHING HIM EVERY MOMENT  For the “stay-at-homers” or those who can take a week off to spend with a new dog, this room by room method works well over time if you are diligent.  It is a very good way to bond with your new pup as you’ll be with him most of the time. 

Give him full access to a small room placing his bed, toys, food and water bowls in one corner.  Spread newspaper or pee-pee pads made just for this purpose over a large area of the floor away from his bed and bowl area.  Place a bit of his urine and poop scent onto the paper/pad to lure him to that spot to do his business.  You will spend a great deal of your time watching over your pup as he plays and explores his room.  Feeding him on a schedule will help regulate his bathroom usage.  In addition to taking him to the paper/pad area after meals, play time, and before and after nap time, you will have to catch him in the act throughout the day and place him onto the paper/pad.  Understanding his body language will help you identify when he is about to go.  Sniffing the floor, walking in circles, and taking the poop-sit position are just 3 of many ways a young pup indicates his need to go.  When he’s going reliably on the paper/pad, grant him access to one more room.  Do not lay papers or pads in the new room.  If he squats, you will have to immediately carry or direct him back to the paper/pad in the other room.  Patience and consistent repetition will have him paper/pad trained in no time.  Gradually reduce the size of the paper spread until it is about 4 to 5 feet square.  Praise him every time he goes on the paper/pad.

If he misses the paper/pad and soils the flooring, clean up using a disinfectant and then wipe the cleaned area with white Vinegar to remove all traces of his odor. 

When the time arrives for him to stop using the paper/pad, begin placing him on his leash and taking him outside instead of to the paper/pad.   Bring a piece of his scented paper/pad with you to place outside in the area you want him to go.   Always use the same door and the same area outdoors.  As he becomes accustomed to going out, place him on his leash and wait at the door 10 – 15 seconds before asking him if he wants to “go outside”.  Then open the door and immediately take him to his potty place.

Choose a method that you can commit to and be consistent.  Need additional assistance with house training?  Are you ready for personal, customized obedience and socialization training?  Experiencing some BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS?  Don't wait until it's out of control to seek help correcting unwanted behavior.  Contact me, Judith Joseph, Dog Obedience Instructor and Professional Dog Trainer at Total Control Dog Owner Assistance.

Expertise + Experience = RESULTS.